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November of 2003 was an eventful month. Twelve Isbona members, representing nine North American farms traveled to Iceland at the invitation of the Southram semen facility to be taught how to evaluate our sheep using the Icelandic methods and criteria, and to learn a vaginal method of AI so we could AI our sheep ourselves. Our teacher was the research scientist and veterinarian Dr. Thorsteinn Olafsson, who had just completed experiments in Norway on several aspects of this new AI method. Seven Isbona members (me being one) were originally scheduled to travel to Iceland for AI training in 2002, but before we left, the Agricultural Advisor of SouthAgri (the parent corporation which the Southram semen facility belongs to), called us to ask us to wait until 2003 for the training, because Dr. Olafsson had just been invited to participate in the Norwegian experiments. The Ag. Advisor (Gudmundur Johannesson) and Dr. Olafsson agreed that we should wait for training until it was known whether these experiments would be successful. If they were, then we would be trained in this new method. If not successful, then we would be trained in the "tried-and-true" method. Months went by with no indication as to whether the experiments yeilded sufficiently positive results, then suddenly "the seven" received an e-mail inviting us to come to Iceland, the testing had gone well. We scrambled to attract other farms to participate in order to keep our expenses to a minimum, and nine farms all together (twelve people) boarded the planes from various points in North America Nov. 17 2003, and the first six of us arrived in Iceland at 6:40 A.M. in total darkness. And the darkness continued! On and on it lasted, until at about 9AM we could see the tiniest blush of redness in the clouds. By 10 AM there was a reasonable amount of light, although it was greatly diminished by the solidly overcast skies. Sleet and snow pellets fell occasionally, but it seemed to me anyway, that I was somewhat overdressed. I had dressed for conditions in extreme Northern Maine, which I was to find is considerably more fierce and unforgiving than the lowlands in the southwestern part of Iceland. However, traveling from Reykjavik to Selfoss where the seminar was to be held, we had to cross some mountains under adverse conditions. High winds, driving snow, and icey conditions made the driving treacherous. Cold arctic temperatures in the highlands are constantly fighting against the more moderate conditions found in the lowlands, which experience winter conditions about like a New York City winter. Even in the higher elevations though, as we traveled along, we could see mountainsides with as many as a dozen or more geysers, all erupting at the same time. There is so much geothermal heat available that some sources are capped, and the heat piped to greenhouses which grow tomatos, watermelons, green beans, carrots, etc., etc. all year long. Other hot geysers are used to generate cheap electricity. Power and heat are so plentiful, that the houses and buildings are kept at a much higher temperature than in the U.S., and there is always a window wide open for ventilation. Why not! The air is almost completely pollution free!
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The people of Iceland are the most literate in Europe, and highly industrious-many work two jobs to maintain a high standard of living and to pay the 40% tax rate. There are construction projects going on everywhere, and the population is rapidly growing. About 3/4 of the entire national population of 300,000 people live in the city of Reykjavik, attracted by the University, the cultural centers, the medical care, and the easy access to jobs.
A gallon of gasoline is about $4.50, and almost all the cars are Japanese and German 4 wheel drive SUV's like the Rav 4. American cars are simply not to be found, except because of the recent devaluation of the dollar, a few of the farms have bought Jeep 4wd vehicles with larger engines good for towing, but at 6,200,000 Kronur, there aren't many of those being bought!
The scenery was breathtaking at every turn. We were graced with uncharacteristically good
weather, and could see for miles. Notice the long shadows in the landscape picture below. The time was about 12 noon. Dawn & twilight last forever in November, with a short 3 hours of full
daylight in between. In December, in southern Iceland, the sun just barely peeks over the |
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